2024 Tacoma Oil Change Guide!

[Riley_monthule]

Thank you for this !! Very detailed and well explained. Once I get through my free oil change services, I'll definitely be referring back to this to do my own!

Awesome glad you found it helpful!

 

[Ravens_taco]

Would highly recommend staying with the Toyota oil. Any full synthetic meets the standards there's does but Toyotas oil is specifically formulated for their engines with particular additive packages. The motor oil geek on youtube has some great videos on this. Just food for thought.

If you read the back of Toyota oil bottle you’ll see it’s manufactured by Exxon Mobil….it’s likely mobil1. Toyota doesn’t manufacture oil or filters they just rebrand them. I’m not telling anyone to not use Toyota branded oil or filters but you can buy other brands without concern

 

[Pappy]

If you read the back of Toyota oil bottle you’ll see it’s manufactured by Exxon Mobil….it’s likely mobil1.

Back a few decades ago my local Toyota dealer used Valvoline engine oil pumped from big drums. It was my understanding that Toyota oil back then was rebranded Valvoline. Same for gear oil.

 

[Voodoo452]

Just did my first oil change, a lot easier than expected. @ 1563miles... RP 0w20, N1 Filter, Fumoto drain plug... The filter drain is millimeters off the frame, no mess if slowly removing filter.

 

[Riley_monthule]

Thank you for this !! Very detailed and well explained. Once I get through my free oil change services, I'll definitely be referring back to this to do my own!

Awesome to hear! Just went through my free changes and it's all garage work from here. Maybe I'll have them do the trans fluid at 30k but we'll see haha. Very easy job on this truck though. One if the best layouts on a modern vehicle I've seen. Gotta love Toyota.

 

[Pappy]

For those who think the lawnmower-sized N1 filter is a joke, the larger 90915-YZZF1 fits. The V6 filter used on the Tundra and Sequoia also fits, 90915-10010, and is just slightly smaller than the F1.

 

[Riley_monthule]

For those who think the lawnmower-sized N1 filter is a joke, the larger 90915-YZZF1 fits. The V6 filter used on the Tundra and Sequoia also fits, 90915-10010, and is just slightly smaller than the F1.

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Hell yeah, do you have any idea if the o ring to thread distance is the same? If it's not oil will just go around the filter and not get filtered as it won't have proper engagement of the threads.

 

[Pappy]

Hell yeah, do you have any idea if the o ring to thread distance is the same? If it's not oil will just go around the filter and not get filtered as it won't have proper engagement of the threads.

The bottom of the N1 and the F1 are identical. O-ring is the same diameter. I thought I took a picture, but I didn't. With the -10010 the bottom flange is different, with oval holes instead of round. O-ring is the same spacing as the other three.

 

[franklewtie]

Are you guys putting in a full 6 quarts? I'm putting in 5.5 and the dipstick reads to the top dot. Anything more seems like I would be overfilling it. And yes, I am changing the filter at the same time as the oil.

 

[Pappy]

A little update. I was warned Toyota might disco the -10010. They did, and the part number has been superseded to 90915-YZZN3. I checked with my local dealer. They did not have any -10010 on the shelf, and there were none in the USA within Toyota's distribution.

 

[k2idle]

Alright everyone I just did the first oil change on my Tacoma and thought I'd post a guide since I can't seem to find a good one anywhere yet.

• Oil filter: 90915-yzzn1 (otherwise known as the N1 filter)
• Oil: 6Q of Toyota SAE 0W-20

Instructions:

1. Take both "skid plates" off. 4 bolts each.
2. Take oil filter off and place drain pan underneath. My filter was wayyyyyy too tight from factory so you might have some trouble taking it off. I ended up putting a screwdriver through the end of it to get leverage and turn it off.
3. Prefill new filter as much as possible and screw it on hand tight.
4. Find the oil drain plug. I included a pic below of the location. Drain the oil and be careful. On mine no matter how I positioned the drain pan the oil would hit it and perfectly rainbow onto the ground. A filter mat placed in the pan would help this. Drain the oil completely, replace the blue washer on the drain bolt and put it back in. The official factory torque spec is 30lbs but that felt like way too much so i just did 15lbs which has been fine and felt plenty tight.
5. Put 6 quarts of Toyota SAE 0W-20 in.
6. Check the dipstick to make sure the oil is in and at the proper level
7. Start the truck and look under it to make sure theres no leaks and everything working correctly
8. Turn the vehicle off and replace the skid plates
9. Enjoy your new oil change knowing you're taking proper care of your vehicle!
10. Change the oil every 5k miles!! I know Toyota says every 10k but if you plan on having the truck for over 100k miles especially with a turbo engine 5k is the way to go. This debate is endless but the car care nut and the motor oil geek on youtube both know more than you and agree that 5k miles is the correct interval.

Relevant: If you bought your truck new do the first change around 1k miles! Again Toyota says 5k but if you want this thing to last forever it's best to do the first change at 1k miles. Go to the motor oil geeks youtube and watch his videos on this (Do you need a break in oil change video) . He goes in depth on why this is important and backs it up with real oil test evidence on multiple vehicles.

Update & Edit: I'm actually going to change my oil interval recommendation to 3-4k miles or every 6 months based on the new "The Car Care Nut" (Video Link) video on YouTube where he specifically talks about the new Toyota turbo engines. I've also done a deep dive into the science of oil changes and why they're so important and this recommendation adds up. I'm just a moron on the internet though so I'll explain my logic.

Oil is used not only to lubricate the turbo but to also cool the turbo along with the coolant. This higher heat degrades the oil faster so turbo engines generally need more frequent oil changes. Cold starts on direct injected engines also allow more gas to seep past the piston rings which again degrades the oil faster.

Think of how well gasoline cleans up an oil spill. It breaks down oil very fast. That's also why if you don't reach 3-4k miles in 6 months you still want to change your oil. The gas and oxygen in the oil are still breaking it down over time.

Now for everyone saying "I'm going to follow what Toyota says and do the 10k oil change intervals, they know best"...

Recommended oil change intervals are regulated by the EPA nowadays to be better for the environment not what's best for your truck. Fewer oil changes mean less waste oil and supposedly better for the environment. So in summary Toyota recommendations don't mean squat for making your truck last forever.

As for the environment, if more oil changes mean you get 100k extra miles out of a truck that carbon tax was paid off decades ago that sure seems better for the environment than buying a new vehicle which creates a ton of extra carbon. Actually, 5.6 metric tons to be exact.

Also good to remember on any turbo vehicle that if you're doing fast driving like highway driving or especially spirited driving/off-roading to let the car sit for a minute or two before shutting it off. The turbo gets extra hot during these periods and if you immediately turn your engine off it'll bake the oil in the turbo oil lines.

Over enough time this will clog the passages just like clogged arteries and destroy the turbo. In my 24 Taco owners manual this is actually mentioned and recommended. Alright, I think I've made my case. Happy oiling!

Step by Step Photos:

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Great post! Thanks!